Embroidering machinery



Feb. 7, 1939. R. LOEB EIBROIDERING MACHINERY Filed Dec. 30, 1935 3 Sheets-Sheet l N E 31----.. WN 1 0N. .QN. m J v u x i N m 0 N g m n m4, .1 AN mm KLML U. Q Ffifiz: tax MN cw ma Z. Q WW ll 0., m R em i Q Q MN\ m film Rudolf Loch,

Feb. 1, 1939. R, LO B 2,145,885

EIBROIDERING MACHINERY Filed Dec. 30,, 193: Q a Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTO Feb. 7, 1939. v R. LOEB 4 2,145,385

EIBROIDERING MACHINERY Filed D90. 50, 1935 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Patented Feb. 7, 1939 jfUNlTED STATES PATENT OFFICE misses mm m1, 1mm. 1n.

1 mu su nmmm a, 1933. Serial at. 104.11:

' 4 My invention relates to apparatus for embroidering textile fabrics and comprises certain'improvements in overedging or overstitching machines employed for the purpose of producing a scalloped embroidery effect upon the edge or edges of a textilefabric. g

One object of my invention is to produce a scalloped effect by, the application of overedging I stitches of..the same or substantially the sam .0 length to the edge or edges of a fabric.

A further object of my invention is to trim the fabric and produce an edge of the desired scalloped contour to receive the overedging stitches by. a cutting implement operating in advance of the stitching operation.

A' further object ofmy invention isto provide means for imparting a laterallyvibrative or reciprocative movement to the cutting implement and the overedge stitch-forming mechanism as the i textile fabric is fed in a substantially or relatively straight line so that such cutting mechanism may eifecta scalloping action upon the fabric and so that the shape ,of contour of the edge so prepared may receive stitches of the same or substantially I the same length which cover'such'edge in the outline or. contour produced by the vibrative or reciprocativez movement of the cutting implement which takes place in advance of the stitching operation. l0 And a still further object of my invention is to provide cooperative means for cutting and stitching that may be adjusted or replaced so that changes in the shape or contour of the scallops produced may be effected as desired.

These and other featuresof my. invention are more particularly referred to hereinafter; reference' being had to the accompanying drawings, in

which:

Figurefi is a plan view of mechanism which I 0 mayfemploy to produce the overedged or overstitched scalloping effect forming the subject of my present invention.

. Fig. 2 is a view in elevation of the cam and associated mechanism for effecting movement of the stitching means.

. Fig. 3 is a view in elevationof the cam andassociated mechanism for eifecting movement of'the In overedging embroidering machines as heretofore provided and as illustrated in my prior patents, Nos. 1,262,070, and 1,547,930, dated April 9, 1918, and July 28, 1925, respectively, provision is made for effecting stitches of different length 3 to form a scalloped edge; the inner margin. of such stitching being in a substantially straight line following the original straight edge of the fabric operated upon; portions of the fabric being infolded by the shorter stitches of the scallops 10 as the overedging or overstitching is produced.

In carrying out my present invention the overedging stitchesare of the same or substantially the same length'and they follow a preformed contour or shape at the edge of the fabric effected by cutting the latter, in scalloped form ahead of the stitch-forming operation; such cutting being effected by a knife or other cutting implement that is laterally reciprocated or vibrated by suitable mechanism as hereinafter described. I)

In general the mechanism employed in carrying out my present invention is similar to that disclosed in my prior patents referred to and the stitch-forming mechanism is the same and the stitch formation is substantially identical with is that effected by the patented mechanism with the exception that in the operation of the present mechanism the stitch-forming mechanism is laterallyreciprocated or vibrated and similar movement is imparted to the cutting implement. In the present instance the stitch-forming mechanism is mounted for movement in definite relation with respect to the action of the cutting implement so that as the fabric is notched or otherwise cut at the edge of the same to produce the desired shape or contour receiving the overedging stitches, the stitch-forming operation follows the preformed shape or contour and lays the desired stitches of the, same or substantially the same length laterally with respect to the draft or straight-line movement of the fabric and following the preformed shape or contour at the edge of the same.

Referring to the drawings, I indicates the base of a sewing machine of the embroidery or overedging type such as that illustrated in the patent of Willcox and Borton, No. 472,095, dated April 5, 1892, and in my prior patents before referred to. The work plate is indicated at 2, and 3 indicates the needle-bar carrying the needle 4. The presserbar is indicated at 5, carrying the foot 6, and-I indicates the cutter bar upon the end of which is mounted the knife 8, which cuts the fabricinto the desired scalloped formation in advance of the stitch-forming and looping mechal6 a reciprocating shaft [2, andnism; The main driving shaft is shown at 9, and this carries the usual pulley l whereby motion may be imparted to such shaft, and a hand wheel H by means of which the shaft may be turned manually when desired.

The presser bar has a hub 5' mounted upon e cutter bar has a hub 'l slidably mounted upon a rod l3; the shaft being slidably mounted in bearings i4 and l5;and the rod l3 being supported thereby.

In order that the shaft l2 maybe reciprocated in its bearings, I provide a cross shaft l6, driven from the shaft 9 by suitable gearing including the worm wheel I1, and this shaft l6 carries a plurality of cams; l8, l9 and20, whereby the necessary reciprocative movement may be imparted to the work plate supporting the bearings l4 and IS in which the rod I3 is mounted; to the shaft l2 of the presser-bar; to the cutter-bar carrying the knife 8 and mounted on the rod l3, and to -the tension means for the looper thread.

The fabric to be scalloped isfed across the bed plate ofthe machine and laterally guided by an adjustable stop member 2| in its substantially straight line movement; passing under the press-' er foot 6. As it is fed it is brought into engagement with the knife 8 which, owing to the combined lateral and vertical reciprocative or vibrative movement imparted thereto, cuts the fabric and produces an edge of the shape or contour of a series of scallopsshort or long as may be desired and as defined by the character of the cam controlling the movement of the knife. The cam which controls the movement of the knife is shown at I8, Fig. 3. This cam is engaged by the end of a bell-crank lever 23, pivoted at 24, to the base of the machine, and connected by a link to an arm 26, pivotally mounted at 21; which arm 26 is in pivotal engagement with the cutter-bar I, at 28, so that movement may be imparted to such cutter-bar to effect the cutting of the fabric in the desired shape or contour.

In addition to the guiding of the cutter-bar by the rod 13, such bar is provided with a-projection 29, slidably mounted in a post 30' on the work plate. It will be noted that theshape of the cam I8 is such asto produce a dwell for a certain portion of its movement which results in the cutting of the fabric along the lines substantially indicated by the diagrammatic views, Figs. 5 and 6. The stitch-forming and looping mechanism is arranged for operation simultaneously with the cutting mechanism, but as it will be laying stitches at a point somewhat in the rear of the position of the cutting implement, its movement while in consonance with the movement of the cutting implement, will not be the same; that is to say, as illustrated in said Figs. 5 and 6, the cutting implement may be operating to cut the relatively straight portion of the scalloped contour while the stitch-forming and looping mechanism is operating upon an indentation of the same, and also the cutting implement may be operating to effect the indented portion of ascallop while the stitch-forming and looping mechanism is overedging a relatively straight portion of the scallop. It will be understood therefore that while reciprocative movement is imparted to the stitch-forming and: looping mechanism its timing is different from that imparted to the cutting implement. In order that reciprocative or vibrative movement may be imparted to the stitch-forming mechanism, the work plate 2 is arranged for movement, and this iseflected by the cam l9, shown in Fig. 2. This cam is carried by the cross shaft l6 and is engaged by the end of a bell-crank lever 35, pivotally connected at 36 to an arm 31 suitably supported by the machine frame; the bellcrank lever 35 having a yoked'end 38 operatively engaging a pin 39 disposed below and operatively connected to the'work plate 2.

The tension for the looper thread is indicated in Fig. 4, and the tension device is controlled by the cam 20, in substantially the same manner; as tension is. applied to the looper thread of the mechanism of my prior patents before referred to. Tension disks 40 are mounted on 'a post 4|, and the desired pressure and release of the looper thread-is effected at the proper times through the arm 42 carried by a short rock shaft '43,

mounted in supports 43', which rock shaft receives its motion from the slotted arm 44, also carried by the rock shaft 43 and operatively connected to the cam 20 throughthe long arm of the lever 45, pivotally mounted at 45; the short arm of said lever being connectedat 45 to the pitman 20* operated by the cam 20 on the shaft I6.

The stitching effected by the mechanism of my present embroidering machine is identical with that set forth in my prior patents, that is to say, the looper thread is laid in a series of loops over the edge of the fabric by a looper of the same type as that disclosed in said prior patents, and these loops are held down by the stitches of the needle thread in the usual manner. The needle thread passes through the tension device and the guide 5| to the needle 4 carried by the needle-bar 3.

The formation of the stitches is identical with that illustrated and described in my prior patents, except that they are of the same or substantially the same length and are laid over an edge of preformed shape or contour of the desired scalloping. The looper places a thread over a prong carried by the reciprocative parts while the needle passes its thread through a loop of the looper thread and through the fabric. The looper engages the needle thread under the fabric and forms a loop at the edge of fabric along its preformed shape or contour; which operation is repeated as the successive loops are formed. The loops or stitches are of the same length and the scalloped effect is produced by thereciprocative movement of the mechanism carrying the cutting implement; needle, and

looper mechanism; the stitches being laid over the preformed edge produced by the cutting implement which is reciprocated back and forth under the influence of the cam l8.

It will be understood, of course, that changes in the character of the scallops may be produced by altering the character of the cams and the timed relation between the movement of the cutting implement and the movement of the stitchforming mechanism including the looper and the needle applying the stitches which hold the overedging loops in position; the cams illustrated serving to produce an overedging or overstitching effect of the character illustrated in the diagrammatic views, Figs. 5 and 6.

Other changes may be made in the mechanism employed; the essential feature being the provision of mechanism for producing a scalloped edge to the fabric in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism and imparting such movement to the stitch-forming mechanism or the fabric as to lay the overedging stitches in conformity with the preformed scalloped shape or contour.

L0 7 cutting operation takes place well in advance of grasses fabric to the same, a 'knife for cutting such I fabric, means for effecting relative lateral movement between the knife and fabric whereby the cutting operation will impart a scalloped edge tothe fabric, means for applying overedging Stitches to said scalloped edge, and means for *eifecting lateral movement of the stitch-forming mechanism; the cooperating mechanism being so uarranged that the cutting operation takes place well in advance of the stitch-forming operation.

2. The combination, in an overedging embroi dering machine, of means for presenting a strip of fabric to the same, a laterally movable knife for cutting such fabric in scalloped edge formation, and laterally movable means for applying overedging stitches to said scalloped edge; the cooperating mechanism being so arranged that the the stitch-forming operation. a

3. The combination, in an overedging embroimovable means for applying overedging stitches to said scalloped edge; the cooperating mechanism being so arranged that the cutting operation takes place well in advance of the stitchforming operation.

4. The combination, in an overedging embroidering machine, of means for cutting a strip of fabric in scalloped edge formation comprising a respect to the fabric as the latter is moved past the same, and laterally movable means for applying overedging stitches of substantially uniform length to said scalloped edge; the cooperating mechanism being so arranged that the cutting operation takes place well in advance of the stitch-forming operation.

5. The combination in an overedging embroidering machine, of means for presenting a strip of fabric to the same, a knife for cutting said fabric in scalloped edge formation as it is moved past the same in a straight line, a rotating cam for imparting lateral movement to said knife, means for moving said cam, and means for applying overedging stitches to said scalloped edge; the cooperating mechanism being so arranged that the cutting operation takes place well in the cooperating mechanism being so arranged that the cutting operation takes place well in advance of the stitching operation.

7. The combination, in an overedging embroidering machine, of means for forming a scalloped edge upon a section of fabric drawn through such machine in a straight line including a laterally reciprocative knife and means for operatlng the same, and means for applying overedging stitches of needle and looper threads of the same length to said scalloped edge including means for imparting laterally reciprocative movement to the stitch-forming mechanism; the cooperating mechanism being so arranged that the scalloping operation takes place well in advance of the stitch-forming operation.

8. The combination, in an overedging embroidering machine, of a reciprocating cutting implement, means for imparting movement to the. same; said cutting implement being carried by a pivotally mounted bar, an arm operatively connected to said bar and pivoted to the machine, a cam, a bell-crank lever actuated by said cam, and a link connecting said arm and bell-crank lever.

9. The combination, in an overedging embroidering machine, of a main driving shaft, reciprocative means for cutting a piece of fabric in scalloped edge contour or shape, reciprocating looper and stitch mechanism for applying stitches of uniform length to said scalloped edge, tension means for the looper thread, a cross shaft driven from the main driving shaft, and cams carried by said cross shaft for actuating said reciprocative parts in timed relation to lay stitches over said scalloped edge following the cutting operation.

10. The combination, in a machine for producing overedging stitches in scalloped formation,

of a cutting implement, a looper, stitch-forming mechanism cooperating with said looper, and means operable from a common driven member for imparting lateral reciprocative movement to said looper, stitch-forming mechanism. and said cutting implement; the latter being arranged to operate well in advance of the stitching operation.

11. The combination, in a machine for producing overedging stitches in scalloped formation, of a cutting implement, a looper, stitch-forming mechanism cooperating with said looper,means operable from -a common driven member for imparting reciprocative movement to said looper, stitch-forming mechanism and cutting implement, and means for feeding a strip of fabric at right angles to the reciprocative movements of the looper, stit h-forming mechanism, and cutting implement; he latter being arranged to operate well in advance of the stitching operation.

RUDOLF LOEB. 

